July 30, 2014

Former UFO: Grey Floral Simplicity 1882

For the record, I am not willing to share with you how long this dress has resided in my sewing room as an unfinished project. But lets just state that the pattern Simplicity 1882 was released a few years ago. 
Sew Melodic in the wilderness
Alaskan Side Note: Last week a moose was in this spot in my front yard, I figure if the spot is good enough for me to photo the moose in, its the perfect spot for blog photos. 
The moose in my front yard
Fabric: Grey floral print is a linen (poly) blend from the stash, which was at one point purchased at JoAnn. Black contrast (collar and pocket flaps) is a cotton broadcloth. I flatlined all the pieces of the dress in a grey lining fabric. The lining was a great addition, it subsided the wrinkles in the linen fashion fabric and added structure and stability to the dress. Inner garment view:
Pattern Alterations: Square shoulder adjustment, shorten torso length and reduce skirt length by 5 inches. I used the Amazing Fit Curvy pattern pieces for the skirt. 
When I cut my pattern I forgot to add my broad back adjustment. The fit would have been better had I not suffered from brain loss, the dress is functional but I do get drag lines under the arms and at the back. 
I elected to edit the collar construction: The pattern intends you to construct the collar so it is free hanging of the center back zip. I constructed  my collar to meet the center back seam and then applied the center back zip to enclose with the collar at the center back neckline. In turn this affected the stand and roll of the collar, my collar now dimples at the shoulder line. In a perfect would I would planned for this as I prefer the center back neckline with my construction method but now that collar dimple is yelling at me that it needs a redraft with a slight wedge of roll room... Next time.


The curved piping waistline is what drew me to this pattern in the first place. For my dress I used a black satin piping remnants from the stash. I worried that the satin and matte of the contrast would not work together but in the end I found that they blended fairly well. 
Simplicity 1882 pockets detailed:
The pocket pieces are a much different shape from standard pockets. After the contrast is attached to the skirt front the pockets are attached. 
 They get flipped and pressed to the wrong side.
 And then folded to create the pocket bags!
 The top of the pocket bag is enclosed in the waistline seam and the pocket side is enclosed in the skirt side seam. There is no shifting of the hanging pocket bags.

I must be looking for more moose in this picture. 

June 3, 2014

Sewing Status Update, Life Throws a Curve and How I Failed at MMM

Hi'ya!
Do you remember that custom dress I started at the beginning of May? I finished it, May 15th as promised for the event, just as my own life took a turn... and that state of influx I had mentioned came to fruition: I found out that I would be moving to Anchorage, Alaska within 30 days! 
Needless to say my MMM documenting fell off the radar. Mind you I did keep up with my commitment and am happy to report that I was able to wear me-made garments at least 4 times a week but my photo evidence does not exist as I was spending my free time packing and purging every item I owned. 
The weekend of May 16 I took an impromptu journey to my hometown in Michigan to say goodbye in anticipation of leaving the Continental U.S. Even with horrid weather I managed a me-made scarf and tee for travel gear. Bonus: during my car travel I was able to finish my UFO pile as per my MMM extra commitment. 
Obligatory sad face pic of  me and the BFF; the only MMM pic for the last half of May! 
I finished and wore the black knit dress (McCall's 6834 - that I was damned and determined to not have become a UFO!) to an amazing party with my Michigan friends. I also had a chance to wear my Burda Jacket as Michigan was still cold. But I didn't manage to capture one good full length pic of the gee golly dress or the jacket. 

When I returned "home" I had to pack the majority of my sewing space along with all that other unimportant household junk, find my future employment, suitable housing, and negotiate the logistics of this crazy impending move. Because I am restless, I purposefully left my sewing machines and iron unpacked and during my extra time I stitched up another custom dress to surprise my client/friend. 
We had ordered two different print fabrics to be on the safe side for her event dress. As it turned out both fabrics were fabulous and I knew the second print would be smashing on her. I had her figure adjustments down after the first dress; I did not even have to fit her once for the second dress. It was meant to be! 
The pattern is Simplicity 1803
The fabric is a very light weight cotton voile and is fully lined.  
 Pattern adjustments: Petite torso and skirt length. Broad back adjustment. Full Bust Adjustment.
I stitched up to the last minute! On Saturday, May 31, I finished the hem of the dress at 11 p.m. I then immediately packed my machine and placed the box on the moving truck Sunday morning. 
It was worth it to see my friends face when I presented the dress to her! 

Currently I am going stir crazy without the ability to sew however, within 48 hours I will be in route to residing in the great state of Alaska and I can't wait to get back into the swing of sewing! 

May 14, 2014

Frock in Floral

The Fabric is a floral and lace printed chiffon perfect for Project Sewn's Floral Frenzy challenge. 
As part of my MMM goals I was intent on finishing a few UFOs. This chiffon frock from a out of print pattern Simplicity 2965 was part of my quest. I finished the dress and decided it was the perfect print to  wear for Mother's Day.
I was obliged to work so my celebration did not include anything special. I did however receive the sweetest card from my love. 

I flat lined the chiffon to a buff colored satin to opaque the fabric and add structure. The internal seams were overlocked to finish. For the gathered lower skirt the lining was free hanging. 
Inner garment views front and back:




Neckline is finished with a facing 
Sleeves
Pockets


May 7, 2014

Week 1 MMM'14

Thursday, May 1, 2014  - Me-Made Blouse
Pattern: Butterick 5817 (OOP)
Constructed: December 2013 never made it to the blog.
Fabric: black solid stretch satin and leopard print charmeuse
Friday, May 2, 2014 - Me-Made Dress
Pattern: Butterick 5385 (OOP)
Constructed: January 2014 never made it to the blog.
Fabric: snake print crepe de chine with black silk waistband.
When I made it I had intentions of putting it on the blog but the never ending winter weather sent the dress to my closet to reside for awhile. 
 
The pattern has some fantastic pleating details in both the front and the back. 



Inner garment front 
Inner garment back
I did not wear any makes Saturday or Sunday but I did start to knock a few tasks off my UFO list! I was able to hand stitch in the car. Yes, I know it is crazy but I like to sew in the car.

I loathe the boredom of car travel yet when I throw some Thread Heaven, thread, scissors and a needle in the door handle of the passengers side, I can zone out and accomplish hand stitching tasks I regularly put off. 

Monday, May 5, 2014 - 
I wore my Green Chiffon Dress worn to work 
2nd look of the day Me-Made Jacket
Pattern: 1986 vintage Ozbek for Style
Constructed: 2013 never made it to the blog. 
Fabric: black satin twill. 

I turned back the front overlap and adjusted the buttons to maintain the new look of the front. 

Tuesday, May 6, 2014 - Me Made Butterick 5677 knit dress for The Monthly Stitch May Sew Stretchy Challenge read all about it here.

May 5, 2014

Disco Chic Nod to an American Hustle Leading Lady

It should come as no surprise that I am constantly influenced by vintage fashion. additional fact, I am also a film fanatic. Plain and simple I love fashion on film so when Project Sewn announced the Leading Lady theme I was overtaken by myriad ideas. 

I set out on a mission to pay tribute to a retro iconic leading lady. Plot twist: after finally getting around to viewing American Hustle it was decided that I should attempt disco chic for the challenge. The 1970s are not an era I commonly gravitate towards but will devour any period film. 





















McCall's 6790 was the pattern I chose to adapt for my look and had intended to shorten the skirt hem and fabric block the dress to create a close replica of the film dress. Yet while hunting my fabric stash I decided that making the dress in the pattern silhouette and in a vivid Melody loved printed chiffon fabric I would allow the look to speak more to my personality and still translate to the challenge. Additionally I wanted to justify my urge to create a maxi dress. 
I am now an official participant in the maxi dress trend as this is the second I have stitched. Previously I was adamant that I would not get on this band wagon I was stubbornly sure that I could NOT pull off the long skirt. I'll have you know I really enjoy wearing them regardless of whether or not my short self can pull them off. 
Pattern modifications: Broad and square shoulder adjustment, shorten torso.  On the slip I lengthened the hem by 2 inches and it was still too short for my liking.
I did not have to shorten the hem it has a mock wrap front that is asymmetrical so no tripping as I walk and the back gets swept up in the breeze.

If I were to make the pattern again I would remove some ease in the  bodice it was designed for the chiffon to be pleated and bag out but I would prefer a sleeker fit on my truncated torso.

The vents on the sleeve pattern are oblong shaped, this was a fun detail and unlike any other I had previously constructed.
The pattern did not call for interfacing on the vent facing but adding it made my chiffon sable and easier to construct the faced vents. 

I serged the raw edges of my facing which allowed me to easily and cleanly turn under my facing on the sleeve inside thus achieving a clean finish for the vents.





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