December 29, 2011

1971 McCall’s Sewing Pattern 3073

McCall’s 3073 date: 1971
View C Length Dress with border print fabric
Materials: 3.5 yards poly Border Print, 22” Zipper, Vintage slide belt buckle
I started making this dress only because I wanted to use a border print. By the end there was fatal neckline failure.

Sad neckline

After construction I had to complete some major re-construction along the neckline. I decided to cut it out and add a facing. Because it was an afterthought neckline treatment it is not as clean as I would have liked however I think I may have salvaged the dress.

December 27, 2011

1955 McCall’s Sewing Pattern 3222

McCall’s 3222 date: 1955. View B Dress
Materials: 3 yards cotton, 3 yard lining fabric, 1 14” zipper
This pattern was lovely. It was quick, easy and fun to sew. I think two hours total.I might be currently obsessed with paisley.

I made some alterations.
In lieu of facing and interfacing pieces I elected to fully line the pattern. The lining on the circle skirt led to a quick hem with a clean finish. The interfacing was fused to the lining to stabilize the button front of the shirt waist.

The swap of facing for black lining led to interest on the button front. The black peeps out with an open top button.

I also took a modern shortcut: one step machine worked buttonholes. I found it to be a nice addition due to the everyday wear look I desired for this shirt dress. I love it, is a lovely modern day dress with a vintage twist.

side placket zip

Inside Garment View

December 26, 2011

Finished Garment McCall’s 5749

Finished McCall’s 5749 Crafty Pattern.
Its almost like the front cover but without the jeweled neckline, I do not think that it needs the added embellishment. 

December 24, 2011

Draping Class Final Project

My final project plan is a Modern LBD with vintage flair.
So here is the beginning draping process.
I have marked my form where my seam lines will be with sticky back tape.
I draped my skirt yoke and then my gathered skirt panels.
Next I will mark my hem based on the drape.

December 23, 2011

McCalls 5749 Crafty Dress

McCall’s 5749 date: 2009. View C Dress.
Materials: 2 yards poly silk Dupioni, 1 yard acetate lining fabric, 1 invisible Zipper
I had some poly silk Dupioni kicking around from Jo-Ann. I had made this purchase with the idea that it would be made into table cloths, yep not so much. So why not kick out a dress from the projectless fabric? I decided to use the wrong side of the fabric due to the immense shine of the right side. This yields more texture as well as some matte.
I enjoyed how the bodice was constructed it was clean, finished and yet still easy to produce. My pattern issue was with the skirt. Like most patterns it was intended to be unlined. Of course I wanted it lined to the hem band!

Even the wrong side has shine, it is not blinding however.
I added the lining prior to pleating, to the bottom of the pleat facing enclosing the raw edge. I edge finished around the two plys of the skirt: where the zip will be inserted and the hem that will be gathered into the hem band. 

skirt and skirt lining with serge
Next I edge finished the bodice at the bottom because it will lie inside the dress as the pleats will be sewn on the outside of the bodice.

bodice with lower serge
Now on to those pleats……..

December 17, 2011

Draping Class Assignment Dart Equivalents

Lets take a look at a really cool assignment I did for my draping class.
Assignment was as follows: Using as a basis the dart equivalent draping projects, create your own project and drape it (front only) on a form. You must use at least two of the following: gathers, pleats, tucks, curved darts, and intersecting darts. True up with red pen, pin back together, and put back on form. Analyze your drape and correct any problems.
For the assignment I converted the darts to four connected curved darts with intersecting gathers.

Butterick 5209 Retro 1947

Butterick 5209 Retro '47, View B Dress Materials: Printed rayon, Bodice lined in th main fabric. Skirt lined in lining fabric
FYI: I love this pattern series. 
However I always run into pattern directions that I would revamp or slightly tweak for what I would consider cleaner results. 
In this case the pattern has you build two bodices (fashion fabric and lining) constructing them separately, and then attach the outside seams. I would much rather gather once under the bust to create cleaner gathers that rest together. Also I am using 2 layers of fashion fabric; it will create BULKY bust. I would not like that.
The process: Construct: back, shoulder seams, neckline, upper bodice center front, sleeves (all pattern directions)

back constructed to upper bodice with sleeves then flipped to right side 
Attach the two parts fashion fabric to "lining" around armseye. Flip and Understitch. 
Then the under bust gathers can be made in one step on both layers. 

Under bust basting stitches

Under bust basting stitches highlighted in chalk
I like to make one fluid basting stitch for gathers. I begin like normal basting 1/2" from the cut edge with my stitch length at its longest. But when I get to the end of the basting, where one would normally end their stitching, I reduce my stitch length and pivot stitching (normal SPI) to 1/4" from the cut edge. At this point I pivot again and increase my stitch length basting back to my original beginning point I make sure to leave myself long thread tails to control the gathered fullness. You can see in the pic below how my basting is connected. I find this to be easier, it saves thread and you do not have to worry about both ends of the basting stitching lines. 

Melody's basting technique
After the gathers are distributed the front midriff pieces can be added First the front Fashion fabric and then the lining enclosing the SA. And the bodice is complete. Add the skirt and the zip via the directions. 

Look without bust bulk in the gathers

December 6, 2011

Retro 1969 Simplicity 8656

Simplicity 8656 date: 1969. View 1 Dress
Materials: 2 ½ yards poly chiffon, 1 yard acetate lining fabric, Broadcloth Remnants, 4 vintage buttons, 1 vintage 20” Black metal Zipper

I had decided to use synthetic red and black hounds tooth printed chiffon for this pattern, I liked the sheer sleeves but wanted to keep the body of the dress covered opposed to the illustration with a slip dress under it. Slightly more work appropriate.

I toyed with the idea of using black cotton broadcloth under the chiffon however it altered the coloration of the red in the hounds tooth so I ended up using a slightly lighter red colored acetate lining. Commonly I love a dress with structured fabric so the light weight of this garment was a departure from my common sewing ventures.

I love the stark white collar and cuffs on the look very mod era chic. However I did not like the white with my chosen fabric, thus the use of the black broadcloth. I elected to omit the interfacing as I did not want starchy cuffs, collar and neck facings on such a light dress.

I lucked out when I got to the zip! I found a black metal zipper in my stash and had planned on constructing it in standard center applied fashion (Railroad), however due to its pristine condition I did not want to hide it so I constructed it exposed.

On the cuffs from my vintage stash I found these 4 buttons that were affixed to a blank card backing (no brand). There were only four of them so I assumed it was meant to be.
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