December 17, 2011

Butterick 5209 Retro 1947

Butterick 5209 Retro '47, View B Dress Materials: Printed rayon, Bodice lined in th main fabric. Skirt lined in lining fabric
FYI: I love this pattern series. 
However I always run into pattern directions that I would revamp or slightly tweak for what I would consider cleaner results. 
In this case the pattern has you build two bodices (fashion fabric and lining) constructing them separately, and then attach the outside seams. I would much rather gather once under the bust to create cleaner gathers that rest together. Also I am using 2 layers of fashion fabric; it will create BULKY bust. I would not like that.
The process: Construct: back, shoulder seams, neckline, upper bodice center front, sleeves (all pattern directions)

back constructed to upper bodice with sleeves then flipped to right side 
Attach the two parts fashion fabric to "lining" around armseye. Flip and Understitch. 
Then the under bust gathers can be made in one step on both layers. 

Under bust basting stitches

Under bust basting stitches highlighted in chalk
I like to make one fluid basting stitch for gathers. I begin like normal basting 1/2" from the cut edge with my stitch length at its longest. But when I get to the end of the basting, where one would normally end their stitching, I reduce my stitch length and pivot stitching (normal SPI) to 1/4" from the cut edge. At this point I pivot again and increase my stitch length basting back to my original beginning point I make sure to leave myself long thread tails to control the gathered fullness. You can see in the pic below how my basting is connected. I find this to be easier, it saves thread and you do not have to worry about both ends of the basting stitching lines. 

Melody's basting technique
After the gathers are distributed the front midriff pieces can be added First the front Fashion fabric and then the lining enclosing the SA. And the bodice is complete. Add the skirt and the zip via the directions. 

Look without bust bulk in the gathers

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