January 23, 2013

Vogue Sewing Pattern 8280

Vogue 8280 View A
So I guess I love this silhouette. Something about a nipped in waist on a dress is so appealing to me. It might have something to do with the fact that I DO NOT have a torso (Me = tiny torso syndrome), thus I attempt to create a waist at all costs.

I did create the belt for Vogue 8280 in the purple contrast fabric I just neglected to photograph it.
That being said I will let you know that this dress was fun to construct. The contrast front armscye piece comes around from the shoulder seams to meet and tuck into the side seams under the arm!

So then when I was all done sewing my super fun dress I finally tried it on... bad news bears. I the shaped neckline was WAY too low and the armscye too big. My tiny torso was now causing me to do post construction alterations? I am well aware of my faults and tend to plan for them prior to cutting my patterns. My common shoulder alt is to cut the shoulder seam at a size 12 and the rest of the pattern at a size 14. Did this with this Vogue pattern too, however in this case it did not work. I had to move the shoulder stitching line an additional 5/8" from the first stitching line! I shaved out an additional 1 1/4" on top of the first 3/4" on each armscye. Crazy, I wonder if this is a common Vogue adjustment or just a fluke of this design?

January 16, 2013

A Two hour Dress Burda Sewing Pattern 7309

Talk about a quick sew.
One and a half hours ago I posted this on the old Instagram and Facebook:

Burda 7309 View B
Young retro-style dress made of two different fabrics with short sleeves, round neck with flat Peter Pan collar in the front, attached skirt with small box pleat.

Front and Front Inner Garment View

Back and Back Inner Garment View

I elected to add a lining as my solid black fabric was sheer in the light and would have led to a garment malfunction. I choose a coral colored lining and in the right light you can see some colr glowing behind the black weave. This also led me to line the bodice in white as I did not want the coral to show through the print. In lieu of neck facing I cut my interfacing as facing and fused it to the lining neckline to act as facing and lining as one.
Super cute, Super fast... Quick sew!

January 13, 2013

Vintage 1955 Simplicity Sewing Pattern 1153 Update

I have been stitching away at my Simplicity 1153 circa 1955.
Look at these pleats. 4 yard pleated skirt...what was I thinking?

As it turns out shoving my 30+ year old modern body shape into a 1950's silhouette is at times devastating.
I planned for my broad shoulders and planned for thicker midsection and some how ended up way too big (I have also dropped weight which I did not plan for). I now must taper the bodice while maintaining additional room for my shoulder width.

At this point I feel as if I might be entering the almost done territory.
Still to complete:
Shorten the straps (mind you I must open up all my handy work and redo them by hand).
Hand pick the zip.
Tack the lining to the skirt.
Add hook & eye.
Fix the petticoat (it will not maintain its shape under the weight of the skirt)
Also I need to find a necklace. How about this?

January 4, 2013

1950's Petticoat Junction

What do you get from 12 yards of tulle, re purposed grosgrain ribbon, lots of bias binding and a weird home dec sheer fabric? As it turns out a petticoat.
Q: Melody, why do you need a petticoat?
A: I am making this:

Simplicity 1153 from 1955
See that skirt? This dame needs a petti. In the instructions one is to add tulle to the skirt but what if I want a skirt lining and want to finish it with a M.Murdock hem, that is a bit excessive in the realm of fabric layers to also add tulle. So a detached hem was my solution.

Q: So how are you gong to do that with a drop waist... girl?
A: Adjust another 1950's pattern. This one for a lovely slip and/ or petticoat:

Vintage Simplicity Sewing Pattern 2423

Now I have a plan of attack. Next I aquired 12 yards of tulle. I also found a fabric from my stash(!), a home dec fabric, it is sheer and yet still stable enough to support any additional gathered layers topstitched to it. Now I need to find a easy method of gathering. I recalled that my lover, my Brother serger had a gathering foot that a girl could purchase. I set out to aquire the foot, after a long amout of internet hunting I found that the cheapest I could get said foot was for $60 (+shippping). Well add time to wait for it to arrive and panic set in. Alas I recalled that a selling point for this over priced beaut was the included gathering foot (plus the rollled hem among other things). If I already own this $60 piece of metal why oh why have I not attempted to use it? So after 30 minutes for hunting in every known nook of my home I struck gold!
So now I had to find out how to use it. This was actually painless at this point of insense hide and seek. I cut a scrap of netting and dug up some seam binding....and the imposible happened; gathers were made.

I felt like I might be getting somewhere on this petticoat. so I fed my seger the tulle strips and seam binding and it spit out in a matter of minutes evenly spaced tulle layers ready to be attached to my petti base! Oh my, that much tulle really piles up on the machine bed.

And in the end...I made a petticoat.

I added a former Grosgrain ribbon belt to now be the waistband...Recycled.
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