August 9, 2013

Monthly Stitch August Cape in Action

Have you heard of the Monthly Stitch yet?
The Monthly Stitch is a sew-along with a new challenge each month.
Idea: sew one garment each month that relates to the theme.
Challenge themes are designed to be open to interpretation and fit with each persons own personal sewing skill level, style and geographic location.
The aim is to build a collaborative collective of enthusiastic sewists all over the world for some inspirational sewing show-and-tell, increase sewing productivity and have fun.
The first challenge: August - Capes

My interpretation of a cape was inspired by a pin on Pinterest:

The cape jacket was made by VICTORIA BECKHAM it can be purchased at the web stores Farfetch or net-a-porter for an average price of $3,128.63. 
Net-a-porter describes the garment as: "A cutting-edge fusion of a cape and tuxedo jacket, Victoria Beckham's wool and silk-blend crepe cover up tops our wishlist. This sleekly structured design boasts gleaming satin lapels and defined shoulders."

I was immediately drawn to the design as it appears to be a challenge. And although my version will not be a luscious silk and wool blend, it will also not carry a thousand dollar price tag. 

I decided to manipulate an existing pattern, Simplicity 1781 to achieve my silhouette. Having previously used this pattern to make a blazer I knew to fit was not as I desired for a blazer but would be ideal for outerwear. 
This omitted pattern fitting modifications, leaving only aesthetic manipulation of my pattern pieces to copy cat my cape jacket. 

My pattern manipulations: 

First, I joined the side front (2 & 3) and side back pieces (7 & 8). I omitted the seam as it was not necessary, it was an aesthetic feature for the Simplicity blazer and would just compete with the clean lines of my cape jacket.  

Next, I added an overlap to the center front (1). The Simplicity jacket met at the center front with a zip or loop buttons. My cape jacket will have a slight overlap 2" and close with a concealed front fastening. 
On this piece I also divided the pattern where my satin collar and matte bodice will meet my hem band. I chose the placement of this division based on where the pocket will be placed on the lower portion of the bodice side front (3). Last on this piece, I redrew my neckline to achieve the deep v of my satin lapel. 

Next, the pocket (4) had to be squared off and lengthened to be turned up into the hem. In the Simplicity blazer the lower portion of the pocket is top stitched to the exterior. in my version it will be cleaner to turn the pocket with the hem. I can not tell it the original VB coat has a pocket but this is a touch i would like in my version, I will be cutting the pocket pieces in the same fabric as the lower portion of the jacket front (1) to create the banded front illusion with the contrasting fabric. 

Next, I extended and contoured the shape of my upper (18) and lower (19) collar pieces. 

Finally, I altered the piece de la resistance the two piece sleeves. On the under sleeve (15) where the sleeve lays against the side seam I amended the seam as it will be sewn into the side seam of the bodice. On the upper sleeve (14) about mid way down the armscye I created the slit. Both of the sleeve pieces were also lengthened to meet the hem of the jacket. 

Whoa! That was a lot of work but some how I think it was faster than draping from nothing. And it was so much fun and challenging thus the monthly challenge! 
Now all I have to do is cut and sew.... 

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