September 9, 2013

Plum Floral Dress Rebecca Taylor Vogue 1251

Vogue Pattern V1251 by designer Rebecca Taylor
MISSES' DRESS: Fitted through bust and waist, semi-fitted through hips. Fully lined and underlined, has front darts and seam variations. Sleeve backs have exposed zippers. Center back and sleeve zippers have self fabric pull tabs. 
 Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Very close. Skirt ended up being looser from hips to hem than the semi-fitted look I was expecting. 
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Instructions were average, no elaboration. Must know how to handle pivot seaming and underlining as no additional instruction is provided.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I chose it due to the strong design in shoulders; I felt it would play well with my body shape. I was intrigued by the sleeve seaming, cuff zippers and pull tabs.
My vintage brass zips during construction for my cuffs 
A few years back on holiday in Tennessee, I was lucky enough to find a huge lot of 1960's dead stock zippers at a flea market, since then I have been sneaking the zippers into projects where allocated.  
The powder blue zipper tape was slightly outside the color wheel of this print but in the end I like the effect with the zipper pulls, they tie the colors together as if the contrast was intended. 
Finished Zip and self fabric pull tab
In the instructions you are to leave a pleat in the sleeve lining for wearing ease I removed bulk of the ease as a personal preference. As you can see I stitch in the ditch (purple stitching line) to secure my sleeve facings. This is one of my favorite quick tricks (that I picked up while working in alterations) to secure facings, it is very visible from the inside of the garment and if you are overly concerned about inner garment beauty ... I do not recommend this trick.
I have never been one to find machine stitching or a few over-locked edges (in a myriad of non-matching thread colors mind you) on the inside of my garment to ruin a good wear on a hand made dress. I call these little details "sewing beauty marks."
Inner view of cuff zip
Fabric Used:
Crepe de Chine outer fabric, cotton plain weave underlining and poly lining
I did not have enough nude color lining of one fabric so I used a different lining fabric for the body than the sleeves.
My outer fabric and underlining (vintage cotton)
Inner garment front
Inner garment back
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Shortened bodice. Broad back and square shoulder adjustment. Additional ease added to sleeves. Lengthened hem 2 inches.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Personally I tend not to remake patterns. I really liked this pattern and I would recommend it if you like a fitting challenge and lots of pattern pieces in a simple silhouette.

I am slightly sad that the cool bust seaming gets lost in the floral print but this is the first dress in a while that did NOT highlight my broad square shoulders. You win some, you lose some. 

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