October 26, 2013

Unsuitable for Plaids, Perky Plaid Vogue 1105

I apologize but this is another Out of Print pattern, Vogue 1105 designer pattern by Anna Sui from 2009. How did I manage two OOPs back to back you may ask. Well you see... I flipped my pattern drawer. Currently the newer patterns are in the back and the older stash are now getting selected and planned for fabrics.
Simple human tricks I play on myself. 
Among other self imposed tricks - when I purchase Vogue patterns I only allow myself to take home Vogue patterns classified with the skill level, average or advanced. Why? I do not know exactly. First and foremost price. I can get any pattern my heart desires for $1 but, when the Vogues are on sale for $3.99 I really need to narrow it down. Secondly, I crave challenge, knowledge and design detail and Vogue can commonly deliver at these pattern levels. I try to find design details I have never tried previously. 
When I picked up this pattern I was looking to conquer my patience with chiffon. In the end I did not find the pattern to be that complicated. There were so many  pieces to the dress but they went together easily.
My fabric is a plaid chiffon from the stash. I got the idea in my head for a girly plaid frock and then read the infamous pattern envelope verbiage, the pattern is NOT suitable for plaids stripes or the like. This pattern has so many pieces that have grain lines that go every possible direction imaginable plus there are severe bodice gathers. Rules be damned. I had limited yardage of the fabric, needless to say I elected to forgo any attempt at matching my plaid.  Again, rules be damned.

I wore the dress covered with a draped cardi as the straps were not work appropriate. This in turn covered all the details. Next time I may wear it over a turtleneck. Chiffon dresses are not winter dresses, rules be damned! 
I made the straps from an elastic trim with beaded ruffles. The ruffled beads were only on one side so I overlayed the elastic trim to get the ruffles to alternate on both sides and stitched them together in the center. In order to sew the straps into the bodice without the beads getting hit by the machine, all the beads that were connected to the strap allowance had to be crushed, broken and removed.  
I had hoped that stitching the trim layers would also reduce the give of the elastic. To some extent the technique did, but half way through the days wear the straps had stretched slightly and I found myself adjusting the bodice. To fix this I will back the straps with a thin grosgrain ribbon. 
I adjusted my over locker to roll hem finish the peplum, back bow and hem. This was tedious, sometimes if I did not catch enough of the fabric in the machine stitching line the thread hem would just unravel off.
Above: Inner garment front and back. For the lining and inner lining of the bodice I used a solid off white crepe. The skirt was underlined with scrap champagne satin. 


  1. Beautiful, beautiful beautiful! I would never associate a more masculine and traditional pattern like plaid/tartan with chiffon. But, my how well it works!


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