November 23, 2013

Blazer in Spotted Leopard Print McCall's 6519

I slipped and fell into the trend zone of the leopard print blazer. In the event that this trendy piece was NOT on your radar; I would like to state for the record that I am not alone. The lovely, talented and gorgeous Maude of MP by Maude is also loving the leopard blazer trend. How fierce and fab is her Victoria Blazer from By Hand London?! 
Needless to say I am a leopard junkie and somehow a leopard blazer was missing from my vast animal print wardrobe. 
My variation of the leopard blazer would never have happened with out Mood Fabrics. In September I was honored to win of the Mood Blog Badge giveaway (bloggers if you are not displaying  a Mood Badge, get one here). I can not say "Thank you, Mood" enough, I am beyond honored. After great debate I was able to narrow my selections and commit to some stunning fabrics. The first thing in my cart was this Italian Brown Animal Print fabric, I fell in love with the variation within the print and knew immediately I wanted it to be a blazer (Currently the online site is out of this fabric but I also picked up this amazing Italian Leopard-Print Stretch Cotton Canvas which would also make a stellar blazer).
Jacket back 
The pattern, McCall's 6519 is a unlined jacket that has front shoulder darts, back vent and sleeves with fold-back cuffs. The center of the stretch cotton has a light print with smaller scale spots that gradually get larger towards the selvage. I decided that the center back of the jacket would show off the pattern play beautifully  but I had to cut across the center for the vent facing for each side back pattern. I was able to cut the pieces and match my center back almost exactly! I elected to make the front pieces large spots and then shifted the pattern play on the sleeves so that the small spots pattern hit the sleeve fronts. From every angle of the jacket you can see the spot pattern variation. 
 I implemented by standard pattern alterations: square and  broad shoulder adjustments and petite torso adjustment to accommodate my frame. But then I made a couple additional adjustments to accommodate the fantastic fabric. I toyed with the idea of lining the jacket prior to the arrival of the fabric, but when I felt the hearty hand of the cotton and the give of the stretch I knew finding a compatible lining was pointless. It was the perfect fabric for an unlined jacket strong, thick and resilient almost like a thick stretch denim twill. Because of the fabric heft I removed any excess hem allowance cropping the hem allowance to 1/2". I decided to use a vintage lace hem binding to turn back the hem without the bulk. 
inner view of the center back vent
Using vintage notions, Lace Hem Binding 
Bias bound shoulder seam and front facing
The pattern tells to finish the seams by turning back the raw edges 1/4" and stitch down, this would never work for my deliciously hearty fabric so I elected to use a vivid green bias binding to encase the raw edges. 
Another construction detail I amended was to lining the patch pockets. Its a personal preference because I hate raw edges in my pockets 
pocket lining yields to no loose fibers in my pocket 

My favorite construction detail in this pattern was the notched lapel it was fun and so easy to sew. 
 When sewing the facing of the shawl collar to the jacket body I just reduced my stitches per inch and sewed the notch point and curve. 
A quick close trim of the seam allowances.
 And then a flip and press to the right side and the collar has a little pop of detail.
Thank you so much Mood Fabrics for this amazing fabric for my on trend blazer in my favorite print that I will wear again and again! 


  1. So fun! I bought that McCall's pattern because the lapel looked easy, so I was thrilled to read your description.Love the idea to line your patch pockets, too!

    1. Thank you Meg, have fun sewing the blazer its a dream!

  2. Oh wow!! The back of it... It's just insane with the print. I really like the entire blazer with the sleeves and the lace at the bottom. So cute! You now ROCK the leopard print girl!! HAHA
    Thanks for the link too, it's always flattering :) I really appreciate it!!

  3. So cool. Love the pattern on the back - great skills!

  4. Fantastic! One great blazer, you look stunning in this outfit!

  5. I love animal print and this blazer looks terrific! Love the green binding as well.

    1. Thank you, Emerald and Leopard is my new favorite combo!

  6. Honestly I'm not a fan of animal prints but I love the way you've used the variation of the fabric for this jacket. It's a stunning make!

    1. Thank you Carolyn. I know the animal prints are not for everyone. This was one of my personal favorites because the lay out of the print was a challenge.


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Happy sewing!

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