Pattern: Project Runway Simplicity 1687, dress with seamed bodice, upper bodice and pleated, flared skirt. Zipper pockets and 3/4 sleeves.
Challenge make a day dress to wear with my purple boots. Challenge accepted.
Fabric: The purple stripe is a stretch woven suiting, it was a remnant from a prior (last year) project (I love the other dress made from this strip fabric too but it is too dressy doe my purple boots).
The black fabric of the upper bodice is a knit that is comparable to the denier of hosiery without the elasticity. Weird fabric combo, I know. Yet I am damned and determined to use these stash fabrics.
I was concerned with the sheer factor of the upper bodice so I self fabric lined the upper bodice and still I ended up with a sheer yoke in certain lights. It only shows the bra straps, not that risque after the full sheer blouse trend.
Pattern Modifications: shortened waist to petite, adjusted for broad and square shoulders, shortened skirt hem.
Construction modifications: The black knit fabric was a feat to cut and sew. One pass of the scissor and it wanted to unravel and run. I omitted the shoulder seams on the yoke and I only had to join at the neckline of the outer fabric and lining.
For the sleeve I also did away with the hem of the sleeve by making the cuff hem a fold. My sleeve pices looked like this:
I stitched the entire length of the underarm sleeve seam, pressed and then turned back the sleeve on itself (at the cuff fold) to encase the seam allowance. Then the 2 ply sleeve was eased it into the armscye; stitching once to catch both the 2plys of the yoke and the two plys of the sleeve in one fell swoop, I finished the seam with an overlock/serged edge.
another vintage zipper pocket! I loved constructing these pockets, pleats, inseam zippers and a pocket bags to boot. Lots of sewing action but it worth every moment.