December 21, 2013

Contrast Bow Blouse and You Win Some You Loose Some Pants

The pattern McCall's 6601 stood out to me because of the contrast bow blouse. I liked the idea of a busy print with a solid bow framing the face. The print fabric is a synthetic challis; which has a stiffer hand than a silk or poly sateen. Due to the stiffer hand the challis behaved much better during construction. Hey look, Vogue 8872 also found this fabric to also be perfect for a bow blouse. The solid contrast is a cotton broadcloth. Even cut on the bias for the bow the fabric does not have much drape. Thus a stiff bow at the neck, I like the effect but commonly the bow neck blouse is desired with a loose draped bow like the pattern envelope photos in which a silk or poly sateen with wonderful drape is utilized. 
Look this is me attempting the models pose on the pattern envelope. At least it is a variation of my go to hand on the hip pose. I have patented that pose its Melodic Steel a la Blue Steel of Zoolander fame.

The broadcloth was perfect for the cuffs and vents because of the fabrics properties so I elected to make the cuffs in contrast too. The vent detail was a one piece folded tab vent, if the vent fabric was a slippery sateen I would have cried. This detail was challenging with all its turns and folds. I followed the construction steps for the blouse completely and yielded great results. 
OK so lets swallow my pride and discuss the sad state of these pants. I did not go into making these pants with any grandiose plans of them being magical britches. 

The Fashion Star Patterns have options for pattern manipulation. I really like those and always give them a second glance. This was no different, I thought it would be a challenge to manipulate this wide leg trouser to a sleek urban Capri. Like all pant patterns changing the leg shape is the least of the manipulation complications. 
I shortened the seat to my measurements, then decided to attempt a wearable muslin in a scrap fabric. The fabric is a navy thin poly crepe suiting, I was not in love with the fabric it is too thin for my taste in a great trouser, perfect for trial and error. In the end lots of errors. I am not a fan higher waist pants on my frame. I dislike front pleated pants. The rear needs a lot of adjustment for my body: raise the center back, contour the waistband and adjust the welt pocket placement. Al in all this is not the pant pattern for me. The pant pattern did have some great features. The waistband opening laps over the left front pocket with out a zipper, which is neat and not common. And I had not attempted welt pockets in quite some time so the back welt pockets, positioned through the back darts, were a fun refresher. They turned out pretty good and now I want to make more. You win some... you loose some. 

8 comments:

  1. Wow the blouse is a stunner! Nicely done!

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  2. I really love this blouse, it's amazing on you!! :)
    Good job, it's lovely.

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  3. The blouse is so pretty, and looks lovely on you.

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  4. What a pretty blouse, you look fantastic (-: Merry Christmas to you!

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  5. I'm absolutely LOVING the solid bow with the crazy print challis. It's a gorgeous blouse - and you look great in it!

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Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Happy sewing!
Melody

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