December 18, 2013

Cozy Camel Coat Simplicity 1942

The pattern is Project Runway Simplicity 1942 (OOP). I purchased the pattern to make the cape with leather detailing however while rummaging through the stash I stumbled upon a plush camel fabric. I received the fabric in a mystery bundle and never had the slightest notion of what to do with it. I would call it an upholstery fabric; it is hefty backed fabric with a pile on the surface. The pattern was a great match for the fabric, is is a wonderful weight for outerwear and the kimono sleeve is perfect as a set in sleeve would never work. 
My pattern modifications were minimal; I shortened the torso and squared the shoulders. I also added a lining as the reverse side of the fabric was incredibly stiff and scratchy.  
for the closure I used sew on snaps in lieu of button holes and the buttons were sewn to the outside for a bit of detail. 
My favorite construction detail in the pattern were the shoulder epaulets. I had to adjust a few pieces to remove some bulk of the material to get the feature to work in the fabric. 

First I serged a raw edge of the looper piece then triple turned and top stitched in place. The pattern intended me to create and turn a narrow tube to achieve a looper that was never going to happen in my hearty fabric.

I was then able to stitch my loopers to the outer jacket arm.
I was very proud of myself that I was able to manipulate the jacket on my machine bed and get both sides of the loopers turned under and machine stitched to the arm. 

Yeah me! I will do anything to get out of hand stitching. 
Next the tab was threaded through the looper. In order to tame the bulk of the tab I cut the under ply from lining fabric as two plys of the outer fabric would not have turned cleanly. 

Finally a button was sewn to anchor the tab. 


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Happy sewing!

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