December 15, 2013

Plaid Wooly Jumper McCall's 5923

Pattern: Out of Print McCall's 5923 (year 2009). I had planned to make this dress since the day the pattern was purchased yet for years the pattern sat bundled up in the wool. 
 The dress is a tapered mid-knee dress that is partially bias with princess seams and an empire front waistline with bias band. 
Bias band at front
It is intended to be fitted however I enlarged the skirt circumference for comfort and ability to wear it while working, I also knew I would be wearing the dress over shirts as a jumper. I may go back and take the skirt in slightly at the waist area I feel the bulk is not doing my waistline any favors.
No big surprises here; I flat lined my version of the dress. The outer fabric is a thick delicious plaid worsted wool therefor the dress is only intended to be a winter garment and the lining helps keep any inner scratchy business at bay.
Against my speed sewing nature, I attempted to take my time matching my plaid in the end this was the best I could match my bias side seams. Not perfection but it will do. 

Another surprise, I amended the construction directions. 
I really do not like it when the sewing instructions direct you to sew the sew the the shoulder seam last when a full neckline and armhole facing are implemented. With that construction method I find the shoulder seam to be unstable and bulky. The last thing I wanted in my worsted wool dress was bulky seams so I constructed my facings to the dress body using an all in one method:
First the shoulder seams are constructed in both the facing and garment fabrics. Then the facing is attached to the dress;  the neckline and armscye seams are constructed. 
Next seam allowances are graded and clipped. No bulky wool seam allowances. 
Each side back piece is pulled to the front through the facing and upper bodice front turning the right sides out.
Press the seams down.
Attach the skirt front at the empire seam and stitch the side seams together.
Turn the facing to the inside and tack at the under arm. Presto all in one facing to garment and a super smooth neckline and arm in wool. 


  1. Great check matching! Thanks for the tip on the facing!

  2. This is so cute, I love it! I'm still afraid to work with plaid, SO much to match up, but I do have a few articles on the subject. I think you matched yours up very well!

    1. Yes, plaid is tricky it takes a lot of time. Jump in and try plaid it is a fun challenge.


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Happy sewing!

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