October 12, 2014

Ralph Rucci Coat Vogue 1419: Muslin Plus Additional Adjustments

After making my muslin additional adjustments came to fruition. First if I may digress and show you the last pre muslin adjustment that was made. 
Shortening the torso length without inhibiting the front button markings: 
1. On the back piece (and the side piece too) make a standard shortening on the pattern using the provided line. I reduced my waistline 1". 

 Don't forget to blend the side seams after making the reduction.
2. On the front piece the same concept is applied.
If the waistline is shortened across the provided shortening line a buttonhole would be taken up in the adjustment causing the lower buttonholes to be moved and re-spaced. That is a lot of extra work. But if the front part of the reduction is offset to avoid intersecting the button markings the reduction is still applied and the button markings remain intact. To do this, cut along the lower lines and slide the lower part up to the reduction line, tape and remember to blend the side seam. 

Now look at the messy state of my muslin.
I need to take out some bulk from the front, I'm swimming in this coat I was so worried it would be too tight and now it is too damn loose.
 The arm has to be raised, my movement is limited.
To fix this, the pivot point is moved up 1" on the front piece.  The seams are blended out to accommodate the new pivot point. 
 Then the gusset and side piece receive 1" extensions.
 Square shoulder issue at the neckline needs to be wedged out. That collar is a crazy mess!
 Pocket markings need to be lowered because of my pathetic short torso and long arms.
Easy fix I just moved the markings down 1 1/2". 
 The upper back is OK just need to work out shoulder issues. 
Adding a slight swayback adjustment. 
Lastly, moving the shoulder dart on the right shoulder forward 1/2" as my right shoulder is wonky. 

October 9, 2014

Ralph Rucci Coat Vogue 1419: Walking Ease Adjustment

As mentioned, I am working on my standard flat pattern adjustments for the Ralph Rucci Coat, Vogue 1419 to begin my musiln of the pattern. I have completed a Broad Back Adjustment, and now I will be adding an adjustment for walking ease. 

Q: What is a Walking Ease Adjustment?
A: Garments that open or overlay at the front look fabulous and hang properly if you are standing perfectly still however in movement (i.e. walking) the opening distorts and is revealing at the hem line. 

I was introduced to walking ease adjustments in the book, Power Sewing New Ways to Make Clothes Fast by Sandra Betzina-Webster
Q: Does this pattern design require walking ease? 
A: Not necessarily. The design (I am judging from the front pattern envelope image) appears to be a bell shape with plenty of room for movement. However, the coat in the image is a designer sample not made from the actual pattern in the envelope. That model in the image is not my size; I carry more girth in my lower half than her. Plus you can add that I have a big stride in my walk and I would like the coat to maintain the dramatic shape even in movement. I will be electing to add walking ease, if I decide that I hate the added ease in my muslin I can remove it prior to cutting my coating fabric. 

Walking Ease Adjustment: 
1. On the Front piece #2, move the grainline into the body of the coat. The grainline remains parallel to the original printed on the pattern, it just needs to move away from the center front to the opposite side of the pattern where the adjustment is going to happen. The grainline is moved to ensure that the adjustment dose not distort the front grain of the pattern design. 
2. Draw a line for the walking ease adjustment from the neck to hem near the center front. On this pattern, my line is 1" away from the original grainline. I made sure not to intersect any of the pattern placement markings. 
3. Cut along the walking ease line from the hem to the neckline and create a pivot point at the neckline (circle in the above photo). 
4. Spread the pattern to create a wedge from hemline. For this pattern, my spread was 1", which I felt would be adequate walking ease given the design shape. If your pattern is floor length note that the greater spread because more ease is required for movement. Next fill the wedge with scrap paper and tape into place.

My Walking Ease Adjustment is complete. I have yet to reduce the torso length and then make my muslin, which will only lead to more adjustments ...

October 8, 2014

Ralph Rucci Coat Vogue 1419: Broad Back Adjustment

To start my muslin for the Ralph Rucci Coat, Vogue 1419, I must start by implementing a few flat pattern adjustments that my figure requires in commercial patterns. First and foremost a Broad Back Adjustment. 
The coat pattern is rumored to run snug; slim fitting at the bust and through the waist therefor I have decided it would be in my best interest to complete a full broad back adjustment. This will allow additional ease for the back waistline and hip. 
My Broad Back Adjustment: 

1. On the Back piece #9, I drew a line parallel along the Center Back fold line. My line was 4 inches into the pattern from the CB fold line. I stopped my drawn line at the mid upper back (the circle in the above photo).
2. I angled my line to the Mid shoulder point; between the neckline base curve and the seam notch. 
3. Cut along drawn line intersecting pattern piece. 
4. Add scrap paper along one side of the cut edge. Mark another line parallel to cut edge the width desired for back extension. 
The pattern upper back measured 16" and my back measurement is 17", I need a 1" total extension thus 1/2" extension on piece #9 which is cut on the fold. 
5. Tape the other half the the back to the extension line. Piece #9 will be eased onto the #7 shoulder pieces between the neckline base curve and the seam notch to accommodate the added back width. 
6. Additional width must also be added to the back belt piece #6. To do so I added my 1/2" extension to the belt side. 

At this point my Broad Back Adjustment is complete. But there are more adjustments to come...

October 4, 2014

Blog Hop

When the incredible seamstress Sandra of Sewist Stitch asked me to participate in the Blog Hop Around the World I was beyond honored. Sandra sews amazing classic silhouettes and she always adds a contemporary twists to her projects with her fabulous fabrications and divine detailing. Sandra also shares swoon worthy mid construction pics on Instragram which is something that I appreciate greatly! 

Why do I create what I do?

Sewing and blogging has become my introverted outlet (oxymoron).
More times than not my sewing is self involved, I mainly construct garments for myself, by myself without close peers that share in my hobby. Don’t get me wrong my “little” hobby has infiltrated everyday life, those around me are sick of hearing me yammer about sewing and fabric (at least as much as I am sick of hearing about fantasy football). Blogging allows me share my sewn adventures; it is my outlet to the like minded and those who want to hear me ramble about my passion. My hope is that I can share my knowledge and possibly inspire like the other bloggers that teach me new tricks and inspire me continuously.

How does my creative process work?
When I say I am constantly sewing something that is an understatement…I am constantly sewing multiple projects.
My sewing rhythm developed through a slow progression. Once upon a time I would cut one pattern and stitch it to completion. Over time I started to temporally neglect the finishing details on the first project and jump into a new project. Somehow it developed into a rotational system in my sewing room. I have bins of matched fabric and patterns and I will cut a slew of them (about 10 patterns) in one fell swoop and then I will sew depending on my mood. I tend to sew in themes: colors, patterns or silhouettes. From time to time I will interrupt my own sewing rhythm get inspired by a challenge or sew-a-long in the blogosphere, this keeps me on my toes and allows me to feel connected to others who share in my passion.
The down side is that my process this leads to a few UFOs…a big basket that needs finishing details. I am currently working towards completing some of them.
So… what else am I working on?
Making separates or wardrobe staples: cardigans, skirts, pants and a few tops for fun.  
Leopard, leopard and more leopard prints: This theme was inspired by the Cat lady Sewing challenge hosted by Miss Crayola Creepy.
Sadly, I do not have an actual cat fabric stashed away however when I read that it was open to the spotted prints of the leopard variety I scoured the stash for the print and found quite a few projects that inspired me!

And I am currently plotting a big project, The V1419 Vogue Sewalong.  p.s. “Thank you Mood!” for sending fabric to the Arctic.

How does my work differ from others of its genre?
I don’t know that it differs, per say. The goal of my endeavors is mainly to share my craft. I also aim to discuss my process and hopefully pass some of my knowledge along the way.

I am passing on the blog hop to: 
The lovely Tasha of the blog A Tell Tale Tasha who exudes an amazing contemporary style. I adore that she stitches a wide range of fabrics and treats every sewing adventure as a learning experience. Keep making it work, girl!

September 16, 2014

Solid Fit & Flounced Skirt McCall's 6842

Hearing the Fabric Mart Challenge for this week I immediately thought separates, the challenge is to make a solid color garment with a  focus on fit. After mulling it a round I decided it would be beneficial to my current climate to create a good winter skirt. The trumpet skirt pattern is McCall's 6842 view C
Fabric: Black Sparkle Poly/Rayon Boucle Suiting (acquired from Fabric Mart last February). 
Fitting Adjustments: 
I carved out a 1/2" sway back adjustment from the waistline on the yoke back piece and then re-purposed the 1/2" length at the lower yoke edge, opposed to the hem line of the skirt, because of the yoke & skirt seam line that cut across the hip. I did not want that seam line to dip up at the center back. 
After concluding that I also did not want the hip line of the yoke to be tight (especially over the derriere) I added a 1/2" wedge to the back hip width for ease. A 1/2" was also added to the lower back skirt piece to accommodate the additional ease width added to the yoke. 

On the yoke front I graded down the waistline size. If I was being proper I would have split the reduction to both the back and front yoke to keep my side seam plumb but... it is what it is. 

Construction Adjustments: 
To reinforce my fabric at the zipper placement I fused interfacing strips to the SA and then inserted the zipper.
My first plan for the skirt was to make it unlined per the directions however as I was working with my fabric I realized it would be a tad sheer for my liking. So I created a built in slip! 
In lieu of the facing pieces, I cut another yoke and interfaced the pieces then I found a retro slip with  a degraded elastic waistband I removed the upper part of the slip and eased the skirt on to the yoke to create the lining. 
Inner Garment Views: 

With my winter ready skirt I foresee a lot of sweater tights on the horizon and  I am now on a mission to create more climate conditioned separates! 

September 13, 2014

LBD From My TNT Simplicity 1803

I wanted a quick and easy to wear LBD. You know for those days when you do not want to think about getting dressed. The fabric is a basic black crepe (acquired from Fabric Mart ages ago). 
This will be the third time I have come back to this pattern, Simplicity 1803. I really enjoy the neckline and sleeve. I had to shorten the torso quite a bit at the waistline and at the yoke to bodice seam. 
Another bonus for this dress...pockets! 
The only construction change this round was that I gave the pocket bags a quick stitch together just within the SA. This kept them from drooping and moving around by securing them towards the center front. 
 As always... I adjusted for square shoulder and broad back.
Only the bodice is lined. Inner garment views: 
 How about pink shoes to match the festive lining?!

September 8, 2014

Former UFO: Animal Graphic Print Butterick 5916

Instragram is grand for holding me accountable for my UFOs. I posted a WIP pic of this dress 15 weeks ago! The dress had been packed away without a zipper or sleeves constructed  until I was Instragram scrolling and remembered the project. Which in turn led to an unfortunate mystery box of UFOs, I will finish them all... 
Fabric: Crepe de chine (acquired from Hancock Fabrics last year). For this pattern, Butterick 5916, I needed keep the light drape of the fabric for the bouncy peplum and bodice gathers but I also wanted a full lining my solution was to line the dress in a solid grey poly pebble crepe (acquired from Joann Fabrics). The crepe is quite sheer on its own but perfect for lining it has similar weight and drape as the fashion fabric.
Inner Garment View: 
In order to create a smooth lined neckline I made up my own construction steps.
All pieces that joined to form the neckline (bodice back, yoke and bodice front) were first stitched RST to the coordinating lining piece at the neckline seam. Then the SA was trimmed, turned and under-stitched. 
Next the gathering was completed on the upper bodice front and the shoulder was completed on the bodice back. Finally the yoke was stitched to join the front and back enclosing all the neckline seam allowances. 
For an additional construction adaption I also lined my peplum. This allowed me to enclose the SA and also eliminated any visible stitching lines on the garment exterior. 
Pattern alterations: shorten torso, broad back, square shoulder, sway back, and shortened skirt length. 
I have been on a print fabric theme maybe I should add some solids to my fall sewing que or I could actually finish more UFOs?! As I have committed to The Anti-UFO Project from the lovely Adrienne of the blog All Style & All Substance.

UFOs be damned by October 31st
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