January 4, 2014

Brumal Bias Plaid Butterick 5851

In my neck of the woods it is COLD outside. Excuse my facial expressions I am just trying to quell my chattering teeth. 
The pattern: Butterick 5851. A bias, fitted dress that has lined bodice and underarm gussets. When the pattern was released I was completely unimpressed by the catalog photos, however the front pattern envelope showed view B in a plaid and I was sold. Immediately I knew it was meant for the black and red cotton blend plaid residing in my stash. And to be honest  I really wanted to sew the underarm gussets. 

Because I was working with the plaid I could cut the gussets in a little plaid square and secretly giggle at how cute it is as I lift my arms throughout my daily travels. Some days only my little nerdy little sewing things keep me going. 
Overall the construction was really easy on this pattern. I adjusted the bodice for square shoulders as well as shortened the torso length. And I also elected to line the skirt making it a fully lined dress.

The plaid matching was a challenge on the bias. I was personally discontent with look of plaids meeting at the waistline seam. I added a belt at the waistline to camoflague the bias mash up. 
At the shoulder and sleeve seam I attempted to align the plaid to wrap to the bodice back while trying to keep the bodice center front seam as fluid as possible. 
The skirt side seams proved to be another challenge to match plaid at the bias due to the hip curvature. I created a chevron effect in the plaid placement at the sides in order to create a somewhat continuous bias effect along the center back seam line and vent to mirror the skirt front.
 This face says COLD. 


  1. I love plaid so much lately, but this bias cut number takes to a whole new amazing level! It is genius.

  2. It is awesome, and the gussets are cute LOL

  3. Love how you matched the plaid on this lovely dress! However, you are a better woman than I am because there's no way I'm taking pics out in the cold!

  4. Absolutely gorgeous! And those gussets are enviable :-)

  5. That's a tough plaid to match and you did a very nice job.

  6. So good looking, Melody! Love you in red!

  7. Wow! Great dress :D
    I love plaid, but don't have the guts to try sewing with it :/


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