January 24, 2014

Progress Update on the Challenging Coat Dress

This is the current internal state of my coat dress (I described the beginning of the process here). I know it looks quite scary but she is actually progressing beautifully. 
By no means is this project speed sewing. I am taking my time and even allowing the time to set all the seams allowing each to cool under the clapper. 
After stitching the darts I added the back stay to the upper back. The back stay will keep the shoulders and arms from stretching. Because this pinstripe wool is a stretch fabric which I turned to align the pinstripes to my liking I MUST reinforce the back and arm holes or it will be ruined after one wear. 
The sleeves were by far my favorite, I really love set in sleeves (Crazy right). I added  a bias sleeve head and distributed my ease in the sleeve cap. 
Then I steam set the cap securing the crimping . Making it a dream to set in to the body of the dress. 
For the record, working with wool is heavenly. 
Inner Sleeve View
The Stitchless Zipper
I have not been able to find an example of a stitchless zip for reference and therefor I am only working from the verbiage of  Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer
According to the text, in order to apply the technique the garment must have a backing. I am using a front facing as the backing along the front opening. 
 I have graded down my seam allowance to eliminate the bulk of the wools and interfacing
Then I Fell stitched the edges of the zip to the facing. The text says to stitch to the seam allowance but I will be adding a lining to cover the zip edges. Besides when have I not changed the rules?
As an extra measure I also machine stitched my zip to the facing. This was not a necessary step but it lets me sleep better at night knowing that zipper is never going anywhere. 
Finally I blind stitched the edges of the facing to the garment body. Not one of those zipper stitches can be seen from the garment front but by NO means is this a zipper that was not stitched. 


It is now time to add the lining and then the collar to complete the garment. 
I feel as if I did enough hand stitching with that zip... yet I am trying to persevere and blind-stitch the hem bands, wish me luck. 

3 comments:

  1. Wow! the details on this dress in amazing. It looks great so far. Thanks so much for sharing.

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  2. This is going to be a great looking dress!

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  3. Beautiful details. ..the average Joe doesn't realize the work that goes into a comment like that. Wonderfully done. I loved reading your post because I have to remind myself frequently that not everything needs to be fast in the sewing room and take my time.

    -dani e

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Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Happy sewing!
Melody

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