This is the current internal state of my coat dress (I described the beginning of the process here). I know it looks quite scary but she is actually progressing beautifully.
By no means is this project speed sewing. I am taking my time and even allowing the time to set all the seams allowing each to cool under the clapper.
After stitching the darts I added the back stay to the upper back. The back stay will keep the shoulders and arms from stretching. Because this pinstripe wool is a stretch fabric which I turned to align the pinstripes to my liking I MUST reinforce the back and arm holes or it will be ruined after one wear.
The sleeves were by far my favorite, I really love set in sleeves (Crazy right). I added a bias sleeve head and distributed my ease in the sleeve cap.
Then I steam set the cap securing the crimping . Making it a dream to set in to the body of the dress.
For the record, working with wool is heavenly.
|Inner Sleeve View|
I have not been able to find an example of a stitchless zip for reference and therefor I am only working from the verbiage of Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer.
According to the text, in order to apply the technique the garment must have a backing. I am using a front facing as the backing along the front opening.
As an extra measure I also machine stitched my zip to the facing. This was not a necessary step but it lets me sleep better at night knowing that zipper is never going anywhere.
Finally I blind stitched the edges of the facing to the garment body. Not one of those zipper stitches can be seen from the garment front but by NO means is this a zipper that was not stitched.