January 24, 2014

Progress Update on the Challenging Coat Dress

This is the current internal state of my coat dress (I described the beginning of the process here). I know it looks quite scary but she is actually progressing beautifully. 
By no means is this project speed sewing. I am taking my time and even allowing the time to set all the seams allowing each to cool under the clapper. 
After stitching the darts I added the back stay to the upper back. The back stay will keep the shoulders and arms from stretching. Because this pinstripe wool is a stretch fabric which I turned to align the pinstripes to my liking I MUST reinforce the back and arm holes or it will be ruined after one wear. 
The sleeves were by far my favorite, I really love set in sleeves (Crazy right). I added  a bias sleeve head and distributed my ease in the sleeve cap. 
Then I steam set the cap securing the crimping . Making it a dream to set in to the body of the dress. 
For the record, working with wool is heavenly. 
Inner Sleeve View
The Stitchless Zipper
I have not been able to find an example of a stitchless zip for reference and therefor I am only working from the verbiage of  Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer
According to the text, in order to apply the technique the garment must have a backing. I am using a front facing as the backing along the front opening. 
 I have graded down my seam allowance to eliminate the bulk of the wools and interfacing
Then I Fell stitched the edges of the zip to the facing. The text says to stitch to the seam allowance but I will be adding a lining to cover the zip edges. Besides when have I not changed the rules?
As an extra measure I also machine stitched my zip to the facing. This was not a necessary step but it lets me sleep better at night knowing that zipper is never going anywhere. 
Finally I blind stitched the edges of the facing to the garment body. Not one of those zipper stitches can be seen from the garment front but by NO means is this a zipper that was not stitched. 

It is now time to add the lining and then the collar to complete the garment. 
I feel as if I did enough hand stitching with that zip... yet I am trying to persevere and blind-stitch the hem bands, wish me luck. 


  1. Wow! the details on this dress in amazing. It looks great so far. Thanks so much for sharing.

  2. This is going to be a great looking dress!

  3. Beautiful details. ..the average Joe doesn't realize the work that goes into a comment like that. Wonderfully done. I loved reading your post because I have to remind myself frequently that not everything needs to be fast in the sewing room and take my time.

    -dani e


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Happy sewing!

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