February 23, 2014

Window Pane Portrait Collar Suit

Portrait collar jacket (pattern McCall's 5478 OOP) with coordinating skirt (pattern Simplicity 2654 OOP)
I can't say that I set out to make a matchy matchy suit. I fell for this jacket pattern when it first came out in 2007 and I sourced the plum wool boucle window pane in 2009 with high hopes to construct the jacket yet as it sometimes does, life got in the way of fancy clothing making and the pattern lived in the stash wrapped in the wool waiting to be cut and sewn. Until this winter when I got swept into a plaid sewing theme, I made plaid dresses, jumpers and coats so why not a suit too? My delusions of grandeur had me dreaming that the suit would make me look like a Hitchcock dame; Kim Novak with a campy vibe. 
The jacket has a bias grain bodice with straight grain sleeves so it seemed natural to add a straight grain skirt. I did not have the yardage to use up much fabric in bias plaid matching I was working with 3 yards (2.74 meters) and needed to yield two garments, none the less I powered through. 
 The collar came out lovely and stood beautifully even with all my shoulder pattern alterations.


 Big buttons seemed just seemed to work for the front closure
 And little buttons for the sleeve vents


 I did take my time to match the skirt side seams and center back seam. So clean you can not even see the seam. 
Typically I tend to avoid a high waist but I thought it work for my nod to vintage suit. I added the fabric belt across the front section to mimic the back fabric belt of the jacket. 
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Inner garment views:
Jacket front 
Jacket back
Skirt


28 comments:

  1. Lovely!!! I'm in love with plaid. That sleeve to back matching is impeccable!

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  2. Wow!! Shape of this jacket is just divine. Love your plaid too.

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  3. Wow! The jacket is just fantastic! I love the collar and the fabric. And, looks fantastic inside out too! I like how pieces of the jacket are cut on the bias, it really adds excitement with that windowpane fabric. And, the whole suit with the high waist skirt? It's fabulous, you will get much wear out if it, I'm sure. ;)

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    1. Thanks...yes it will get worn well for sure; together and as separate pieces!

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  4. The whole outfit is fabulous! I love the jacket collar!

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  5. I really love your suit, the color and you did such a great job with the whole thing. Love that you didn't press your collar to death (as I quite often do). Your hair is wonderful!

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    1. Oh Faye thank you, I know those collars can be a bear, tread lightly!

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  6. Fantastic! I own this pattern, and have been wanting to make it for a long time. Your version definitely puts it to the top of my list!

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    1. Erin, make the pattern it is a fun sew!

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  7. Okay I officially love you/hate you now! *LOL* I have this same fabric and it's been sitting in the collection because I was wondering what the h*ll I was thinking when I bought it. Now I know ~ I wanted to be you! *LOL* This is an awesome suit. I love everything about it. The silhouette, the way you used the fabric, the buttons and even the lining ~ you really made a wonderful outfit! Now to see if I can follow in your footsteps!

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    1. Follow away doll... sew the fabric it is a delicious boucle!

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  8. Spectacular, I love everything about this suit. Amazing job.

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  9. Wow, that is one fabulous suit. I love everything about it! Well done. ~Teri

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  10. Your suit is just gorgeous!! The inside is soooo pretty too!

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  11. Great work, your suit is unique in style and exquisitely made.

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  12. So Fabulous! I love the fabric choice and styling.

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  13. What a gorgeous suit! Beautiful.

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  14. I love a colorful suit. I really like the jacket. The tailoring and fit are really nice.

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  15. This is a really beautiful suit. I am so impressed by your creative vision and your sewing skills. Tammy R.

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  16. What a lovely suit! Your fit is amazing.

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  17. This is one seriously stunning jacket!!! Absolutely love it. You've got me so inspired!

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  18. Geez.. your inside pics are so awesome!

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Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Happy sewing!
Melody

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