The pattern is Retro Butterick 5605. Like many of you, I adore the Retro Butterick pattern line.
For this dress I decided to pair my current love of plaid with a retro design. A few weeks back I was hell bent on shifting my sewing for the upcoming spring season so I set out to create a transitional dress in a lightweight wool. The wool is a Marc Jacobs purple plaid wool suiting acquired years ago from Fabric Mart and it is fully lined.
This pattern is classified as an average difficulty sewing pattern and I would have to agree with that. I truly enjoyed the construction of the pattern I am always searching for a construction challenge. The bodice center front and back pieces continue to the below elbow kimono sleeves; then to contour the bodice to the body a side front and back bias cut piece attach at the princess line and pivot to the under arm. This pivot is a bit of advanced construction for modern day equivalent patterns. The best part is that you get to execute the pivot steps 8 times, 4 on the outer fabric and 4 on the lining. And to boot the instruction sheet leaves something to be desired for these steps, therefor I would recommend scrap fabric practice.
In the pivot join the corners are reinforced by remnant squares that you first attach to the bodice front and back by a little V-shaped stitch along the seam allowance into the corner. They end up looking like this:
You then have to slash, turn and press them towards the fabric wrong side. Next align the bodice side pieces to the center pieces and as you stitch into the pivot point you must make sure to not catch the remnant squares in the stitching line as they are not meant to show on the garment right side.
The remnant squares are intended to be additional fabric plys that sandwich between the seam allowances. After the bodice seams are presses they look fairly smooth the the little remnant corners peeking out on the wrong side:
The right side is a beautifully executed pivot join
Pattern changes: I elected to cut the bodice front on the fold so the plaid would remain intact on the bodice center front. Additionally the back bow is drafted to be one continuous piece from the back neckline however I knew that I did not want to self fabric line the bodice back so I made the back bow its own separate piece. I then faced the bow ties in a coordinating vivid purple broadcloth.
Inner Garment Views: