boss me around and choose my March garment make for The Monthly Stitch. And the voting had me on the edge of my seat, from one day to the next I could never guess the outcome of the vote. In the end Vogue 1316 won with 52 of 185 votes. To make my version of the Rebecca Taylor Designer Pattern I scrounged up a shoe box full of scrap fabrics from prior projects. The Vogue pattern calls for four different fabrics blocked together yet I had to obtain five different fabrics to account for the yardage needed to create the dress.
- Tiny scale houndstooth cotton blend suiting used for center front and back panels as well as center bust section
- Houndstooth raw silk and wool blend suiting used at shoulders and upper hip
- Diagonal stripe raw silk and wool blend suiting used at bust and back bodice and side hem section
- Black moleskin used at front neckline and waistband contrast
- Houndstooth plaid cotton blend suiting used at center waistband and sleeves
The silk and wool fabric scraps were the remains from my graduate collection. I never imagined that I was holding on to these scraps of fabric to ever use again; it was just too sentimental to discard them.
|I remember those fabrics|
And yet as I was sewing the Vogue dress I kept reminiscing about my collegian years. The scent of the raw silk will forever remind me of my time spent in my alma mater apparel studio.
I digress. Putting these 5 different fabrics together presented a bit of an obstacle, the fabric thickness was varying. The diagonal stripe silk/wool blend suiting was twice the thickness of the cotton blends. Therefor those fabrics needed to be underlined. My underlining was a cotton plain weave from the stash that I never foresaw using as a fashion fabric.
The seaming on this pattern is abundant, I forewarn to only attempt it if you are looking for a challenge. Keeping all those SA aligned on the curved seams was tricky. And if you hate pressing seams this pattern may not be for you.
Pattern modifications: Sway back adjustment, square shoulder adjustment, broad back adjustment. I also had to remove torso length to do so I had to take it out of the bodice under the bust to not skew the width of the three waistband tiers. I also had to remove length in the hip length which crossed paths the curved pieces of the skirt so the curve alignment needed to be adjusted.
Because I was working with the diagonal stripe fabric it would have been impossible to align the pattern using scraps so I removed the side seam of the pattern pieces at the hem line. I also did this at the waistband thus creating a clean continuous pattern placement in my fabric. I did keep the side seams in the upper bodice so the grain line remained on the bust and back as well as at the hip because of the curvature from waist to hip.
Addition of sleeves: The Vogue pattern is designed with shoulder caps that extend over the shoulder point, I re-drafted the intersecting shoulder pieces to add an armscye.
Then I drafted a sleeve; which is my favorite one piece sleeve design from the book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Joseph-Armstrong (4th edition, page 133).
The sleeve construction is different. I first flat lined the cuff facing and sleeve lining to one another then I stitched the lower hem edge and followed up into the pleat cutout. Next the sleeve and lining was turned RST then pressed and finally the sleeve underarm seam is stitched enclosing the raw edge.
View of the sleeve lining and facing
The sleeve creates a fun pleat with a cuff button detail. I was going to add button holes but instead I used crochet loops and metal buttons for my cuff.
Hand tacked zipper