March 20, 2014

Last Days of Winter Hounds Coat McCall's 6800

Here in the Midwest United State the weather is still being a fickle beast.  One day we wake to snow the next sunshine. Meanwhile as spring has not sprung I managed to finish a coat. The pattern is McCall's 6800. My variation is view C with the hi-lo hem of view B, it is a fitted and flared lined coat with high stand collar and side front pockets. 

Pattern Modifications: broad back adjustment, square shoulder adjustment, shortened torso length and shortened hem line by 4 1/2" (11.43 cm). I cut the belt and loops for view C but thought that it would be too much in the print thus the belt was omitted. 
The pattern construction is straightforward. I did however add an internal back stay to my coat. To do so I constructed my lining back pieces then traced the upper back portion on to a cotton suiting scrap and attached it to the back side of the lining to hold the upper shoulder shape. 
The only minor issues I ran into during construction was my cotton coating fraying non stop. I would recommend using a fabric that frays less as there are many seamed panels in this design. Also the panels presented a challenge for perfect print alignment in my hounds tooth.  I powered through, non the less. 
By the time I had reached the point of adding my vintage re-purposed buttons (found at an estate sale) I wished I had added bound buttonholes. My outer fabric and facing plus interfacing was much to thick for machine worked buttonholes. I had to sit with a hand needle threaded with buttonhole twist and hand work all five holes. I have little patience...but I powered through. 
Inner garement view: 
Hello again raspberry lining turns out 10 yards goes a long way; 2 coats, 2 dresses and still going! 

25 comments:

  1. I love the peek of the lining behind the hi lo hem! Perfect

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  2. Where oh where did you get that fabric, I have been searching for a large print houndstooth?

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    1. Hello Zynthia, I found this coating fabric last summer at my local Hancock Fabrics on super clearance because it was out of season. I am a houndstooth junkie so I pick it up where and whenever I find it to add to the stash!

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  3. Oh WOW! The shape of this coat is insane! It's so lovely :) I want one!

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  4. P.s just looked at the envelope front. Wow! Yours is way way better! Great job.

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  5. I agree with sewmanju, your coat looks infinitely better than the pattern envelope! I'm not sure I would have bought the pattern if I saw it in the store, but I definitely want to buy it now after seeing your coat!

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    1. It is a fun coat to sew. Yes that pattern photo is so sad! Thank you.

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  6. I have avoided this pattern like the plague because the envelope versions were sooo off putting to me. I don't think your version could be any more opposite of that. I am reconsidering the possibilities of this pattern now. Very well done!

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    1. I don't think all the flowers in the background helped matters. The pattern envelope is too busy. I would have never bought this either. Just goes to show not to judge a book by it's cover. The hounds tooth with the lining is beautiful.

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    2. Thank you all. I tell you...I had to stop looking at the pattern envelopes quite some time ago. I now only pick patterns based on the line drawings!

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  7. Did I tell you how yet how much I like your blog AND your hair? That coat is gorgeous especially with the pop of raspberry.

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    1. Thank you kindly Faye, and I will pass your kind words on to my lovely hair stylist!

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  8. Gorgeous! Love the buttonhole solution too as I am struggling with the buttonholes on my own coat. I need to do some reading to see if I can master the hand sewn ones.

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    1. You can do it! It does get a bit repetitive. I like to use multiple strands of thread on coats as they are so thick.
      http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/how-to-make-hand-worked-buttonholes/technique

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  9. Your coat is so much better than the envelope. I think you look fabulous and I am so impressed with handstitched buttonholes, wow.

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  10. Love everything about it - the fabric, the high-low hem, the lining. Great work!

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  11. Oh My, such a beautiful coat. I love the raspberry lining popping out with the hi-low hem line. As always, just beautiful :-)

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  12. Well I would have expected nuthin less than this amazing beauty! I love houndstooth too and do the same as you, pick it up whenever I can find it. Although I do hope spring comes to you soon because even though it still cold on and off, at least all of our snow has finally gone away!

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  13. Great job. Love the hi-lo hem & the lining...gorgeous.

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  14. Great coat! I love the high-low hem. I have a few coatings and patterns I intended to make this past year, but it never got cold enough here for me to want to make them

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  15. Fabulous, just as expected from you.

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  16. I think I'm going to just start all my "pattern review" searches here because you've made all the patterns I want to make!! :)

    I want the shorter coat but the hi-lo hem like you did here and I have 3 yards of wool. I gotta make it through with 3 yards!! :)

    Can you let me know how you changed the pattern to do the fancy hem on the shorter length?? Sewcraftychemist gmail you know the rest :)

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Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Happy sewing!
Melody

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