March 30, 2014

Mock Wrapped Mini Hounds Dress Simplicity 1686

As I was flipping through my closet to getting ready for work today I ran across this dress and it occurred to me that it had been photographed and never shared! I constructed it last month when I had clearly slipped into a houndstooth stitching theme. 2 dresses and outerwear constitute a theme right? 
The pattern is Simplicity 1686 Amazing Fit Collection which is the pattern line intended for performing garment fit analysis as you sew. 
This dress design features a mock wrap style bodice with lapels. The lapels drew me to the design I thought it would be fun to create them is a contrasting fabric to make them stand out. Upon looking at the photos I see that I will need to baste my suiting under the lapel roll line to keep it from puckering.
While planning my dress I also chose to make the waistband and side bodice panels color blocked for additional contrast. The main fabric is a hounds tooth poly blend suiting and the contrast is a black sating twill.
Pattern adjustments: petite torso, broad back adjustment, square shoulder adjustment.
I used the skirt pieces for a curvy figure.


The skirt features a front overlay to add to the mock wrap design of the dress. I changed the construction steps for my hem by first hemming the overlay piece then constructing the skirt and hemming leaving the overlay free hanging.
I had originally planned to add a lining to the dress although the pattern is designed unlined. For the upcoming season I finally decided it would be best served to make the dress unlined with overlocked seam finishing. Making this a spring weather dress; it is official, I am finally sewing for spring!
Inner garment view:
I interfaced the center back zipper insertion area on the suiting to insure that it was a strong and stable as the satin till waistband and facing. 
The 3/4 length sleeve is pretty cute, the cuff features a v-shaped cutout for detail and the sleeve head has a pleat at the shoulder. Unfortunately I decided to stand in a Wonder Woman pose for every one of these photos thus causing the sleeve fabric to buckle after the pleat due to my unnatural stance, rest assured the sleeve is pretty cute in a relaxed stance. 

10 comments:

  1. Woo hoo for spring sewing! I love the way you colour blocked the side panels. Makes the design lines really stand out!

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    1. Yes the sun will shine again! Thank you, I have been getting carried away with my color blocking.

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  2. You're killing me with these amazing dresses. I do not need to sew another dress and yet now I want to. Beautiful, just beautiful.

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    1. I say the same things I do not need more dresses but I do love then so. Thank you.

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  3. I think you can pull off the Wonder Woman pose. Another fabulous creation. I am glad you showed the interior. Lately I have been trying to decide about leaving garments unlined and sewing slips to wear instead.

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    1. Thank you Jennifer. Yes, unlined dresses with slips are perfect for summer months!

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  4. Another winner! But isn't it interesting how we stand affects how the dress fits?

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    Replies
    1. I know as much as I try not to slouch to frump out my dress then I go throw out my arms. I belong behind the sewing machine not in front of the camera!

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Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Happy sewing!
Melody

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