Yes, it is that time again and I am in. Believe it or not I am working on a JOAN dress. The dress is from season 5, episode 2. One to always make an entrance, Joan wore the shocking pink beaded cocktail number into the office at mid day to introduce the new baby and receive reassurance of her place at the firm. I found the over dressed emotional wreck that is Joanie in this scene extremely endearing and the wiggle dress in my favorite colors to be right up my sewing alley. I have decided to use a floral for my fashion fabric a la Joan.
My floral fabric has yet to arrive but my plans are in motion.
First I attempted to find a pattern in my stash that matched the dress outline. 1960's Simplicity 4650 was very close.
I need to redraft the bodice and neckline as well as elongate the sleeves.
I decided that because my bodice front would be two pieces I would also make my bodice back into two pieces. To do so I traced my vintage pattern and then adjusted for my broad back. I added my broad back width at the upper back shoulder dart and adjusted for my square shoulders. The shoulder dart was 1/8" (0.32 cm) originally and the dart became 5/8" (1.59 cm) once my additional back width was added. Then I connected the upper dart point to the waistline dart point dividing the bodice back two pieces and adding seam allowances at the new seam line.
I made a muslin and will spare myself inter-webs embarrassment of personal photos. But it did not turnout half bad.
|Sorry this 1980's scrap quilting cotton is SO busy you can't really see my darts|
Once the fit was set I was able to adjust for the bodice front gathers. I traced the side pieced then added lines across the pattern piece about an inch apart.
The lines are slashed and spread from the curved bust line with 1/4" in between each slash. The new slashed and spread pattern is traced and the gathered curved edge is connected.
Note the difference in the pattern pieces. The original bodice side pattern piece will be the lining pattern without any gathers. My pattern is drafted.
Making neckline piping:
Joan's dress has black satin piping, I am using a cotton sateen in shocking pink for my version of the dress.
Then I measure and cut the bias strips. For the piping I used 1 1/2" (3.81 cm) bias strips.
The bias strip is merely folded over rat-tail and stitched to form piping. I used an adjustable piping foot for stitching, it is similar to a zipper foot but is completely flush on the side to not to interfere with the cording.
Wish me luck I am hunting for beads and have yet to decide on the belt. Should I use the bow belt from the pattern or the fabric wrapped closure belt like Joan?