As mentioned, I am working on my standard flat pattern adjustments for the Ralph Rucci Coat, Vogue 1419 to begin my musiln of the pattern. I have completed a Broad Back Adjustment, and now I will be adding an adjustment for walking ease.
Q: What is a Walking Ease Adjustment?
A: Garments that open or overlay at the front look fabulous and hang properly if you are standing perfectly still however in movement (i.e. walking) the opening distorts and is revealing at the hem line.
I was introduced to walking ease adjustments in the book, Power Sewing New Ways to Make Clothes Fast by Sandra Betzina-Webster.
Q: Does this pattern design require walking ease?
A: Not necessarily. The design (I am judging from the front pattern envelope image) appears to be a bell shape with plenty of room for movement. However, the coat in the image is a designer sample not made from the actual pattern in the envelope. That model in the image is not my size; I carry more girth in my lower half than her. Plus you can add that I have a big stride in my walk and I would like the coat to maintain the dramatic shape even in movement. I will be electing to add walking ease, if I decide that I hate the added ease in my muslin I can remove it prior to cutting my coating fabric.
Walking Ease Adjustment:
1. On the Front piece #2, move the grainline into the body of the coat. The grainline remains parallel to the original printed on the pattern, it just needs to move away from the center front to the opposite side of the pattern where the adjustment is going to happen. The grainline is moved to ensure that the adjustment dose not distort the front grain of the pattern design.
2. Draw a line for the walking ease adjustment from the neck to hem near the center front. On this pattern, my line is 1" away from the original grainline. I made sure not to intersect any of the pattern placement markings.
3. Cut along the walking ease line from the hem to the neckline and create a pivot point at the neckline (circle in the above photo).
4. Spread the pattern to create a wedge from hemline. For this pattern, my spread was 1", which I felt would be adequate walking ease given the design shape. If your pattern is floor length note that the greater spread because more ease is required for movement. Next fill the wedge with scrap paper and tape into place.
My Walking Ease Adjustment is complete. I have yet to reduce the torso length and then make my muslin, which will only lead to more adjustments ...