September 16, 2014

Solid Fit & Flounced Skirt McCall's 6842

Hearing the Fabric Mart Challenge for this week I immediately thought separates, the challenge is to make a solid color garment with a  focus on fit. After mulling it a round I decided it would be beneficial to my current climate to create a good winter skirt. The trumpet skirt pattern is McCall's 6842 view C
Fabric: Black Sparkle Poly/Rayon Boucle Suiting (acquired from Fabric Mart last February). 
Fitting Adjustments: 
I carved out a 1/2" sway back adjustment from the waistline on the yoke back piece and then re-purposed the 1/2" length at the lower yoke edge, opposed to the hem line of the skirt, because of the yoke & skirt seam line that cut across the hip. I did not want that seam line to dip up at the center back. 
After concluding that I also did not want the hip line of the yoke to be tight (especially over the derriere) I added a 1/2" wedge to the back hip width for ease. A 1/2" was also added to the lower back skirt piece to accommodate the additional ease width added to the yoke. 

On the yoke front I graded down the waistline size. If I was being proper I would have split the reduction to both the back and front yoke to keep my side seam plumb but... it is what it is. 

Construction Adjustments: 
To reinforce my fabric at the zipper placement I fused interfacing strips to the SA and then inserted the zipper.
My first plan for the skirt was to make it unlined per the directions however as I was working with my fabric I realized it would be a tad sheer for my liking. So I created a built in slip! 
In lieu of the facing pieces, I cut another yoke and interfaced the pieces then I found a retro slip with  a degraded elastic waistband I removed the upper part of the slip and eased the skirt on to the yoke to create the lining. 
Inner Garment Views: 
  

With my winter ready skirt I foresee a lot of sweater tights on the horizon and  I am now on a mission to create more climate conditioned separates! 

September 13, 2014

LBD From My TNT Simplicity 1803

I wanted a quick and easy to wear LBD. You know for those days when you do not want to think about getting dressed. The fabric is a basic black crepe (acquired from Fabric Mart ages ago). 
This will be the third time I have come back to this pattern, Simplicity 1803. I really enjoy the neckline and sleeve. I had to shorten the torso quite a bit at the waistline and at the yoke to bodice seam. 
Another bonus for this dress...pockets! 
The only construction change this round was that I gave the pocket bags a quick stitch together just within the SA. This kept them from drooping and moving around by securing them towards the center front. 
 As always... I adjusted for square shoulder and broad back.
Only the bodice is lined. Inner garment views: 
 How about pink shoes to match the festive lining?!

September 8, 2014

Former UFO: Animal Graphic Print Butterick 5916

Instragram is grand for holding me accountable for my UFOs. I posted a WIP pic of this dress 15 weeks ago! The dress had been packed away without a zipper or sleeves constructed  until I was Instragram scrolling and remembered the project. Which in turn led to an unfortunate mystery box of UFOs, I will finish them all... 
Fabric: Crepe de chine (acquired from Hancock Fabrics last year). For this pattern, Butterick 5916, I needed keep the light drape of the fabric for the bouncy peplum and bodice gathers but I also wanted a full lining my solution was to line the dress in a solid grey poly pebble crepe (acquired from Joann Fabrics). The crepe is quite sheer on its own but perfect for lining it has similar weight and drape as the fashion fabric.
Inner Garment View: 
In order to create a smooth lined neckline I made up my own construction steps.
All pieces that joined to form the neckline (bodice back, yoke and bodice front) were first stitched RST to the coordinating lining piece at the neckline seam. Then the SA was trimmed, turned and under-stitched. 
Next the gathering was completed on the upper bodice front and the shoulder was completed on the bodice back. Finally the yoke was stitched to join the front and back enclosing all the neckline seam allowances. 
For an additional construction adaption I also lined my peplum. This allowed me to enclose the SA and also eliminated any visible stitching lines on the garment exterior. 
Pattern alterations: shorten torso, broad back, square shoulder, sway back, and shortened skirt length. 
I have been on a print fabric theme maybe I should add some solids to my fall sewing que or I could actually finish more UFOs?! As I have committed to The Anti-UFO Project from the lovely Adrienne of the blog All Style & All Substance.

UFOs be damned by October 31st

September 1, 2014

Remake Project: Swapping Sleeves

I purchased this double knit dress six years ago and managed to only wear it once. I liked the body of the dress with a scrappy bow adornment but did not like one minute of the sleeves. 
The manufactured sleeve was short and voluminous; we all know I prefer a longer length sleeve. Recently I got a wild hair and removed the sleeves. I drafted a new sleeve from my favorite sleeve pattern Butterick 5745. The dart in the sleeve head at the shoulder is what makes this my favorite sleeve pattern. 
Butterick 5745 sleeve pattern is a short sleeve which I lengthened out to a 3/4 length and then added a cuff band. I cut my new sleeves from scraps of my beloved black ponte knit although the knit from body of the original dress is not the same as my ponte  I felt they blended well enough.
After minimal effort I have a new to me garment that I will actually wear. Do you ever change parts of purchased clothing to your liking? 
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