Hearing the Fabric Mart Challenge for this week I immediately thought separates, the challenge is to make a solid color garment with a focus on fit. After mulling it a round I decided it would be beneficial to my current climate to create a good winter skirt. The trumpet skirt pattern is McCall's 6842 view C.
Fabric: Black Sparkle Poly/Rayon Boucle Suiting (acquired from Fabric Mart last February).
I carved out a 1/2" sway back adjustment from the waistline on the yoke back piece and then re-purposed the 1/2" length at the lower yoke edge, opposed to the hem line of the skirt, because of the yoke & skirt seam line that cut across the hip. I did not want that seam line to dip up at the center back.
After concluding that I also did not want the hip line of the yoke to be tight (especially over the derriere) I added a 1/2" wedge to the back hip width for ease. A 1/2" was also added to the lower back skirt piece to accommodate the additional ease width added to the yoke.
On the yoke front I graded down the waistline size. If I was being proper I would have split the reduction to both the back and front yoke to keep my side seam plumb but... it is what it is.
To reinforce my fabric at the zipper placement I fused interfacing strips to the SA and then inserted the zipper.
My first plan for the skirt was to make it unlined per the directions however as I was working with my fabric I realized it would be a tad sheer for my liking. So I created a built in slip!
In lieu of the facing pieces, I cut another yoke and interfaced the pieces then I found a retro slip with a degraded elastic waistband I removed the upper part of the slip and eased the skirt on to the yoke to create the lining.
Inner Garment Views:
With my winter ready skirt I foresee a lot of sweater tights on the horizon and I am now on a mission to create more climate conditioned separates!